Tasting the Wines of Poderi Elia: Small Yields, Great Wines
Piedmont, the cradle of Italian wine, is renowned for its outstanding quality and family-owned wineries. One such producer is Poderi Elia, a family estate whose history dates back to 1890.
A History of Winemaking on the Hills of Neive Since 1890
Founded in 1890, Poderi Elia is located on the vineyard-covered hills above the village of Neive in Piedmont’s renowned Langhe wine region, one of the key communes of the Barbaresco DOCG area.
The estate was established by Candido Elia, the great-grandfather of the current generation, in 1890. Through hard work and dedication, the winery established itself among the respected family estates of Neive. Today, the winery is run by Candido’s great-grandson, Federico Stella. All vineyards are estate-owned, allowing complete control over quality from vineyard to bottle.
Poderi Elia grows four traditional Piedmontese grape varieties: Arneis, Barbera, Dolcetto and Nebbiolo.
Quality Begins in the Vineyard
Poderi Elia’s philosophy is based on low yields, meticulous vineyard management and traditional winemaking methods. Yields are deliberately kept low to produce wines with greater concentration, complexity and quality. Depending on the wine, only three to six grape clusters are left on each vine.
The wines are neither filtered nor fined, preserving their authenticity and character. Annual production is approximately 80,000 bottles.
Four Expressions of the Poderi Elia Style
Rosé Nebbiolo V.S.Q. Superiore ”Bollanso”
Bollanso is a sparkling wine made from 100% Nebbiolo from Serracapelli cru. The wine is dedicated to Federico’s children. The name combines ”Boll” from the Italian word bollicine (sparkling), ”an” from Andrea and ”so” from Sofia.
The vines grow at an altitude of 330 metres above sea level in limestone and clay soils. The wine undergoes its first fermentation in stainless steel tanks, while the second fermentation takes place in the bottle. Bollanso spends 24-36 months on the lees following secondary fermentation in the bottle.
The wine has a bright pale pink colour. The nose offers aromas of ripe lemon, orange peel, apricot and freshly baked bread. On the palate it is dry, vibrant and concentrated, with ripe fruit flavours supported by a subtle tannic grip. The finish is mineral, slightly saline and remarkably persistent.
In my opinion, sparkling Nebbiolo is a true hidden gem that still does not receive the attention it deserves. This wine makes a perfect aperitif and pairs beautifully with a creamy risotto.
Langhe DOC Arneis 2024
This wine is made from Arneis, a traditional white grape variety of Piedmont that was historically cultivated alongside Nebbiolo.
The vines grow on south-east-facing slopes at 220 metres above sea level in calcareous clay-marl soils. The grapes are harvested by hand and the wine is aged on its fine lees.
The wine displays a bright pale yellow colour. Aromas of ripe lemon, pear, apricot, exotic fruits, sweet almond and floral notes rise from the glass. The palate is dry, medium-bodied and moderately acidic, echoing the aromas found on the nose.
This is an excellent companion to mushroom soup or richer fish dishes.
Barbera d’Alba DOC Superiore ”Vi Veje” 2019
Made from 100% Barbera, this wine comes from a 45-year-old vineyard planted in limestone and clay soils. ”Vi Veje” means old vineyard in Piedmontese. The grapes are harvested by hand, with only four to five bunches left per vine. Fermentation takes place in stainless steel tanks, while malolactic fermentation is completed in oak barrels. The wine is then aged for 18 months in French barriques.
The wine shows a medium-deep ruby red colour. The slightly evolved nose reveals aromas of dark cherry, plum and a hint of liquorice. Medium-bodied on the palate, it offers well-integrated and polished tannins alongside flavours of dark stewed cherry and ripe plum.
The finish is lingering and medium-long. This is a wine I would gladly enjoy with aged hard cheeses.
Barbera d’Asti DOCG Superiore ”Abletti” 2018
”Abletti” takes its name from the vineyard from which the wine originates. The vineyard is located at an altitude of 330 metres above sea level in limestone-rich clay-marl soils. The vines were planted in 1980.
During the growing season, yields are restricted to seven to eight grape clusters per vine. Fermentation takes place in stainless steel tanks over a period of 15 days, after which the wine is aged in French barrique and big barrel for 8 to 12 months.
Abletti represents a slightly more mature and elegant expression of Barbera from Poderi Elia. At this stage of development, the wine is beginning to show signs of maturity while retaining an impressive core of fruit.
The wine has a medium-deep brick-red colour. The slightly evolved bouquet reveals aromas of red and black cherries, raspberry, sweet spice, cinnamon, blackberry and a touch of liquorice. On the palate, flavours of dark plum, blackberry and stewed cherry emerge alongside silky, beautifully integrated tannins.
This is an excellent wine for hearty dishes and aged cheeses.
Further reading:
Poderi Elia: Poderi Elia – Cantine in Neive dal 1890
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