From Abruzzo to the World: Cantina Tollo

The winegrowing history of Abruzzo, located on the central Adriatic coast of Italy, reaches back to antiquity. The region is particularly known for its commitment to indigenous grape varieties such as Montepulciano and Trebbiano d’Abruzzo, both of which thrive in the area’s diverse conditions. Abruzzo’s soils range from clay and limestone to sand, while the higher mountain zones feature stony, welldraining terrain. Dramatic variations in elevation create a mosaic of microclimates that shape the character of the region’s wines. 

A Cooperative Born from Post-War Hardship

Cantina Tollo was founded in 1960 in the village of Tollo, at a time when Abruzzo was suffering from post-war depopulation. The cooperative quickly became a symbol of regional reconstruction and one of the driving forces behind Abruzzo’s wine renaissance in the 1960s and 1970s. Today, Cantina Tollo is one of the region’s most significant producers, with 600 members, 2,500 hectares under vine, and exports to more than 40 countries. A large share of the vineyards is certified organic, and environmental sustainability guides every aspect of production. 

Research, Experimentation and the Revival of Lost Varieties

Beyond sustainability, Cantina Tollo is driven by three core principles: research, experimentation, and the enhancement of indigenous grape varieties. A prime example is Maiolica, a historic local grape rediscovered through collaboration with the experimental viticulture institute in Conegliano Veneto. The first new plantings were established in Tollo’s experimental vineyard, and the revival of Maiolica has since become an important part of the cooperative’s identity. 

A Culture of Quality Built Around Growers

Equally central to Cantina Tollo’s philosophy is the value placed on its growers and their work. This is exemplified by the Vigneto Avanzato project, launched in 2005, which compensates growers based on cultivated hectares rather than yield. The model has fostered a strong qualitydriven culture and stabilised income even in challenging vintages. The project incorporates precision viticulture, soil mapping, satellite monitoring and agronomic research, allowing interventions only when necessary. The result is reduced environmental impact and enhanced biodiversity. 

Sustainability at the Core

For Cantina Tollo, sustainability is not a marketing slogan but a concrete operational principle — a commitment to growers, the land and future generations. In 2022 the cooperative received the Equalitas certification for meeting environmental, social and economic sustainability standards across the entire wine supply chain. The following year, an ethical code of conduct was introduced to ensure transparent and consistent governance. 

Cantina Tollo also holds the ISO 14001 environmental management certification, the world’s most recognised standard for environmental performance and continuous improvement. In addition, the winery is certified under the BRC Global Food Safety Standard, an internationally respected benchmark ensuring product safety, traceability and quality. 

Three Pillars of Quality

The quality of Cantina Tollo’s wines rests on three key pillars: climate, viticultural practices and soil. 

The vineyards lie between the Adriatic Sea and the Maiella massif, where the interplay of sea and mountain breezes creates a pronounced day–night temperature variation. This diurnal range is one of the region’s most important quality factors: cool mountain air descends during the day, while at night the sea brings moisture and freshness. This helps preserve acidity, aromatics and structure even at relatively low elevations of around 150 metres. Although the area lies on the same latitude as Rome, the dynamic between mountains and sea creates a uniquely favourable microclimate for viticulture. 

A second pillar is the traditional Abruzzese tendone (pergola) training system, where a canopy of leaves shades the grapes from direct sunlight. This reduces heat stress and slows evaporation, particularly valuable in hot, dry years. The method is labourintensive and costly, but ideally suited to the region’s climate and essential for producing consistently highquality fruit. 

The third pillar is the region’s varied soils and sloping terrain. Hillside vineyards offer excellent drainage and prevent excessive moisture, supporting healthy grapes and aromatic development. The interplay of clay, limestoneand sandy layers contributes to the structure and balance of the wines. 

Crape Varieties

Cantina Tollo cultivates Montepulciano, Trebbiano d’Abruzzo, Passerina, Pecorino, Maiolica and Cococciola. Montepulciano, known for its ageing potential, is moderately vigorous and lateripening, thriving in mild, dry conditions. The wines are rubycoloured, fruitforward and balanced in tannins. Trebbiano d’Abruzzo performs particularly well in light, silica and limestonerich soils, producing strawyellow wines with delicate fruit and floral notes and a characteristic almond finish. Passerina, a vigorous variety that ripens later than Trebbiano, yields wines with a pale straw colour, floral and fruity aromas, and is also used for sparkling wine production. 

Tasted Wines

During an online tasting hosted by Cantina Tollo and Studio Cru, winemaking consultant and technical department supervisor Riccardo Brighigna presented the following wines: 

Trebbiano d’Abruzzo DOP Organic 2025 

Passerina Terre d’Abruzzo IGP Organic 2025 

Montepulciano d’Abruzzo DOP Rubì 2021 

Cagiòlo Montepulciano d’Abruzzo DOP Riserva 2020 

Trebbiano d’Abruzzo DOP Organic 2025

Made from organically grown Trebbiano d’Abruzzo. Fermented in stainless steel and left unfiltered. Riccardo emphasises that in organic viticulture, vine vigour remains naturally balanced without the growthboosting effect of chemical fertilisers, helping maintain harmony and vitality in the vineyard.

Tasting note: Pale golden colour. Aromas of citrus, white peach, pear, herbs and flowers. Dry, mediumbodied and fresh, with a slightly spicy, almondtinged finish. Excellent with fish or soft cheeses. 

Passerina Terre d’Abruzzo IGP Organic 2025

Made from organically grown Passerina. Fermented in stainless steel. Tasting note: Bright pale yellow. Subtle aromas of almond, white peach, pear, citrus and floral notes. Dry, mediumbodied and moderately acidic. Less fruity than Trebbiano, with a clean, refreshing finish. Ideal with fish. 

Montepulciano d’Abruzzo DOP Rubi 2021

Made from Montepulciano grapes grown across Abruzzo. The hot 2021 vintage produced ripe fruit. The wine undergoes a short maceration and malolactic fermentation, followed by two years of ageing in large oak vessels. 

Tasting note: Deep purple colour. Aromas of spice, dark cherry, raspberry and liquorice. Soft, wellintegrated tannins. Riccardo describes this as a modern interpretation of Montepulciano — elegant, with silky tannins. Excellent with creamy pasta dishes. 

Cagiòlo Montepulciano d’Abruzzo DOP Riserva 2020

Named after casciolo, the local dialect word for limestone soil. Grapes come from different parcels to achieve balance. The wine undergoes long maceration, malolactic fermentation and ageing in French oak, with a small portion matured in amphora. 

Tasting note: Deep purple colour. Aromas of ripe red cherry, blackberry, spice and mocha. Fresh acidity provides structure; tannins are moderate. The palate mirrors the nose. A multiawardwinning wine. 

Cantina Tollo showcases modern elegance in its wines without compromising its history or the value of its indigenous grape varieties. Its location in Abruzzo, between the Adriatic Sea and the Maiella massif, offers ideal growing conditions, complemented by the traditional tendone training system and the region’s rolling, diverse soils. 

Further reading:

Cantina Tollo: https://cantinatollo.it

Wine gifted: Cantina Tollo