Beaujolais,  Winery visit

Domaine Frédéric Berne – The New Voice of Beaujolais

A new generation of winemakers is making its voice heard in Beaujolais. Their ambition is not to maximize production volumes, but to produce high-quality wines through sustainable viticulture. I visited Domaine Frédéric Berne in Lantignié, a village in Beaujolais whose winemakers are pursuing the long-term goal of obtaining its own cru status.

Domaine Frédéric Berne has grown rapidly since its founding. When Frédéric Berne established the estate in 2014, it comprised just three hectares of vineyards. Today, the domaine covers around 13 hectares. A small team of three, Frédéric, Antoine, and Cédric, is responsible for everything from vineyard work to winemaking.

The estate is farmed using organic and biodynamic methods. According to the team, the goal is to find a balance between efficiency and sustainability.

“You have to be efficient and sustainable at the same time. Finding that balance is not easy, but it is something we constantly strive for,” says Antoine.

Renewing the Vineyards

Traditionally, vineyards in Beaujolais are trained using the bush vine, or gobelet, system, where vines grow low to the ground in a free-standing shape.

Cordon training system

At Domaine Frédéric Berne, however, part of the vineyards has been converted to the cordon training system. The change is largely driven by the practical requirements of organic farming.

The cordon system makes weed control easier without the use of herbicides and facilitates the application of copper and sulfur, the two main treatments authorized in organic viticulture for disease control. It also improves canopy management and allows for more efficient treatment of the leaves.

Harvesting is carried out entirely by hand.

Organic Farming Against Erosion

One of the estate’s most visible vineyard practices is its unusually wide row spacing. While rows in Beaujolais are often only about one meter apart, Bernes leaves approximately two meters between rows.

The wider spacing allows cover crops to grow between the vines. This vegetation improves biodiversity, captures nutrients, and, above all, protects the soil from erosion.

This is particularly important on Beaujolais’ granite-rich slopes, where heavy rainfall can quickly wash away topsoil.

Various cover crops are sown between the rows, including grasses that help fix nitrogen and improve soil health. In May or June, the vegetation is cut and left on the ground to increase organic matter in the soil.

“If the cover crops were left throughout the summer, they would compete with the vines for water. The key is finding the right balance,” Antoine explains.

Cooler Vineyards Through Agroforestry

Domaine Frédéric Berne is also experimenting with agroforestry by planting trees within its vineyards.

The idea is that deep-rooted trees can contribute to water and nutrient cycles while providing shade during increasingly hot summers. The trees also help offset the carbon deficit caused by deforestation.

It is a long-term project.

“We will only see the results in 15 or 20 years. We are planting trees now and monitoring how they influence the vineyards over time,” says Antoine.

Lantignié’s Quest for Cru Status

Lantignié is one of the 38 villages included in the Beaujolais-Villages appellation. Located in the northern part of Beaujolais, it lies roughly an hour’s drive from Lyon.

The area is known for its remarkably diverse geology. Its soils include blue stone, pink granite, and sedimentary formations often referred to as ”golden soils.”

Many producers believe that Lantignié’s terroir is on par with that of Beaujolais’ most renowned crus.

For this reason, local winemakers established an association in 2017 with the aim of gathering research data and historical evidence to support a future application for cru status.

The process is a lengthy one.

“Perhaps in ten or twenty years, Lantignié could become a cru in its own right,” Antoine says.

Beaujolais’ Long Road Back to Recognition

One of Beaujolais’ greatest challenges today is its reputation.

During the 1960s and 1970s, Beaujolais Nouveau became an international phenomenon, but production increasingly focused on volume. When demand began to decline in the late 1990s, the entire region faced significant difficulties.

According to many producers, the next phase of growth cannot be built on volume.

“We need to restore the region’s reputation through quality, not quantity,” says Antoine.

Frédéric Berne belongs to a generation of winemakers who believe the future of Beaujolais lies in terroir, sustainable farming, and the distinct identities of individual villages.

Climate Change Is Affecting Harvest Dates

The effects of climate change are clearly visible in Beaujolais.

In the past, harvest typically began toward the end of September. Today, grapes are often picked in early September and sometimes even in late August.

The 2025 vintage was particularly warm, and harvesting at Domaine Frédéric Berne began on August 28. Similar conditions were experienced in 2020 and 2022. Summers are increasingly hot, and temperatures above 20°C are now common even in early spring, as was the case during my visit in March.

The main weather-related threats today are hailstorms and spring frosts. Although Beaujolais is less vulnerable to frost than regions such as Burgundy, Champagne, or Alsace, earlier budburst increases the risk.

Early ripening leaves vines more exposed to frost damage.

“We cannot use methods such as vineyard fires like some regions do because they are simply too expensive. We can only hope that frost does not arrive,” Antoine says.

Organic Viticulture Is Expanding Slowly

Although interest in organic farming continues to grow, it remains a minority practice in Beaujolais.

According to Antoine, around 20 percent of the region’s vineyards are now organically certified, although the proportion varies considerably from one area to another. Historically, Beaujolais has been a region focused on large production volumes, which has made the transition to organic viticulture slower than in some other French wine regions.

“Converting to organic farming is a slow process. If you want to remain efficient and economically viable, it requires a great deal of experimentation and time,” Antoine says.

The Potential of White Beaujolais

Although Beaujolais is almost exclusively associated with red wines made from Gamay, many producers see a promising future for white wines as well.

The vast majority of Beaujolais production remains red wine, while white wines account for only a small percentage of total output. Much of the Chardonnay grown in the region is destined for Crémant de Bourgogne production, which has helped keep Beaujolais Blanc relatively limited in volume.

Domaine Frédéric Berne has nevertheless invested in white wine production. The estate has been producing small quantities of Chardonnay for several years and sees considerable potential in white Beaujolais wines.

Changing consumer preferences also play a role. Demand for white wines has grown in many markets, while consumers increasingly seek fresher and more gastronomic wine styles.

At Berne, there is a belief that Beaujolais’ diverse soils and cooler hillside sites could provide an attractive complement to the region’s traditional red wine production.

While white wines still represent only a small portion of overall production, their importance may increase significantly in the decades ahead. They could offer Beaujolais an opportunity to broaden its identity beyond its reputation as a red wine region.

Where Tradition Meets Modern Thinking

Tradition remains highly visible in the cellar. An old wine press is still in regular use.

The red wines are primarily fermented and matured in concrete tanks and old oak barrels. The use of older barrels adds texture and complexity without imparting overt oak flavors.

Antoine is showing an old press that is still in use.

At Domaine Frédéric Berne, there is a firm belief that the future of Beaujolais does not lie solely in easy-drinking wines meant for immediate consumption.

Many of the estate’s single-vineyard wines are considered capable of significant bottle aging.

The wines are bottled twice a year, with total production reaching a maximum of around 14,000 bottles.

Although Domaine Frédéric Berne is a small estate, its wines are already exported to nearly ten countries. Key export markets include the United Kingdom, Belgium, Germany, and Italy. The wines are not currently available in the Nordic countries.

Around 20 seasonal workers are employed during harvest, as all grapes are harvested by hand.

Tasting the Wines

The tasting began with L’Optimiste Rosé 2023, a fresh and fruit-driven rosé made entirely from Gamay. Its name reflects optimism about the future of Beaujolais.

Les Bruyères Blanc 2023 is a Chardonnay that combines the freshness of stainless steel with the roundness of oak aging. White fruit aromas, floral notes, and excellent balance define the wine’s character.

Among the reds, the youthful Beaujolais-Villages represented the most traditional style, offering red berry fruit, light tannins, and the vibrant fruitiness associated with carbonic maceration.

Morgon Saint-Jo 2024 showcased the complexity and structure associated with pink granite soils.

Aux Verges 2023 highlighted the influence of blue stone terroir, bringing greater intensity, structure, tannins, and aging potential.

The tasting concluded with Harmonie 2024, the estate’s flagship cuvée. It combines fruit from Lantignié’s most distinctive soil types, resulting in a deep, balanced, and age-worthy Gamay that convincingly demonstrates the area’s potential.

Domaine Frédéric Berne represents a new face of Beaujolais. The estate combines ambitious quality-focused winemaking, environmentally conscious viticulture, and a strong belief in Lantignié’s future.
After visiting the domaine, it was easy to understand why producers like Frédéric Berne are considered to be at the forefront of Beaujolais’ renaissance. The future is no longer about the volumes of Beaujolais Nouveau, but about terroir, identity, and the patient pursuit of quality.

Further reading:

Vin Bio et Dynamique – Beaujolais – Domaine Frédéric Berne