The taste of Colli Berici
Invitation to virtual tasting: Studio Cru
Colli Berici is an interesting and fascinating area in the Veneto region of Italy. The region is particularly famous for its wine production, stunning landscapes and historical sites. I got to know the wines of Colli Berici and Vicenza at a virtual tasting organized by Studio Cru, where the Consortium’s director, Giovanni Ponchia, told us about the wines and the region.
The Consortium for the Protection of the Berici Hills and the Vicenza Wines has been operating since 2011, when two separate associations, Consorzio Tutela Vini Colli Berici DOC and Consorzio Tutela Vini Vicenza DOC, merged. The new Consortium aims to protect, promote and develop the wines and wine sales of the Colli Berici and Vicenza.
The Colli Berici DOC area has 850 wine growers and 600 hectares of vineyards. Wine growing is concentrated on the slopes of the area, which are located on the west, south and east sides. The rest of the area is dominated by forest. The area is also known for its Palladian and Palladian-style villas.
The Berici Hills
Berici Hills is located in the heart of the Veneto region of Italy. The Colli Berici hills were formed about 60 million years ago as a result of volcanic activity. More precisely, as a result of the tectonic folding and uplift of volcanic cones. The volcanic cones have developed a basaltic terrain that positively influences the taste and aromas of the wine.
The symbol of Berici Hills is considered to be the Tai Rosso wine. However, the most widely grown variety in the area is Cabernet Sauvignon. In addition, Merlot, Carmenère and Cabarnet Franc varieties are also grown in the area. White varieties include Garganega, Bianco, Chardonnay, Manzoni Bianco, Pinot Bianco, Pinot Grigio and Sauvignon. Sparkling wine is also produced using the traditional and Charmat Methods.
DOC Colli Berici is dominated by red varieties. In 2024, 73.5% of the wine produced was from red grapes, with Merlot was dominant variety.
The Tai Rosso wine – the symbol of the Berici Hills
Tai Rosso is wine I had yet to discover, but now I’m intrigued by its unique profile. Tai Rosso grapes are also known as Tocai Rosso. It is an indigenous variety that is genetically related to Sardinian Cannonau, French Grenache and Spanish Garnacha. Tai Rosso grapes are considered a typical variety of the Berici hills, as it has been present in the area for hundreds of years.
Tai Rosso needs light and warmth from its growing location, which the Berici hills offer it. Wines made from Tai Rosso are typically ruby red in color. The fruity aroma usually reveals red fruits, such as cherries and raspberries, as well as violets. The taste is often dry and soft, and the tannins are lively. The taste often includes raspberry, plum, rosehip and almond. According to Giovanni, Tai Rosso is best enjoyed slightly chilled at around 15-16 degrees. An excellent red wine also for warm summer days.
Vicenza DOC
The Vicenza DOC, created in 2000, is a very large and diverse area. The climate is different and it rains more here than on the Berici hills. The following grape varieties can use the Vicenza DOC Protected Designation of Origin: Chardonnay, Garganega, Riesling, Sauvignon, Manzoni Bianco, Pinot Bianco, Pinot Grigio and Bianco. Red varieties: Cabernet, Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Pinot Noir and Raboso. Sparkling wines: Bianco Spumante and Moscato Spumante. Also Vino Passito.
DOC Vicenza production in 2024 has been dominated by white grape varieties, with Pinot Grigio being the most widely produced.
Colli Berici DOC wines
We tasted the following six wines at the virtual tasting:
- Colli Berici DOC Tai Rosso ”Corallo” – Cavazza
- Colli Berici DOC Tai Rosso – Pegoraro
- Colli Berici DOC Merlot ”Casara Roveri” – Dal Maso
- Colli Berici DOC Cabernet ”Pozzare” – Piovene Porto Godi
- Colli Berici DOC Carmenère ”Carminium” – Inama
- Colli Berici DOC Rosso riserva ”Casa Defrà” – Cielo e Terra
Colli Berici DOC Tai Rosso ”Corallo” 2021 is made from hand-picked Tai Rosso grapes from the Alonte and Tenuta Cicogna. The wine is aged in French oak barrels for 6 months and it remains on bottle for a further 6 months before release. The name ”Corallo” comes from the marine origin of the Berici hills. The vineyard area still contains fossils. The color of the wine is light, garnet. Nose of red cherry, raspberry and blackberry. The palate is soft with nice acidity and red berries. Warming spicy finish. Balanced and vibrant.
Cavazza Winery was founded in 1928. The winery has undergone changes and innovations throughout its history. The pergola vines were converted to Guyot vines, which was the farm’s first step towards sustainability.
Colli Berici DOC Tai Rosso Pegoraro 2021 is made from Tai Rosso grapes hand-picked in September in an old vines vineyard. The soil is limestone. After the crushing, the must with all the skins slowly starts a natural fermentation by controlled temperature for about 10 days. Maturation in the stainless steel vats for 3-4 months. Appearance is pale, ruby. Nose of red cherry, strawberry, cranberry and raspberry. The palate is fruity with red berries and soft tannins. Alcohol 14 %.
The Pegoraro family-run winery is located in Barbarano Mossano, a classic Tai Rosso area. The estate was a nunnery in the 13th century and has since become the home and winery of the Pegoraro family. Production is strongly focused on Tai Rosso.
Colli Berici DOC Merlot ”Casara Roveri” is made from Merlot grapes at the Casara Roveri winery in the Alonte area, southwest of the Colli Berici. The 31-year-old grapes have grown 150 meters above sea level. The grapes are hand-picked in September. After grapes are crushed and de-stemmed, they remain for 12 days on their skins in 50 HL open vats. Maturation in 18 months in oak barrels and refined in bottles for 5 months. Appearance is medium ruby. Nose of red/dark cherry, plum and flowers. The palate is smooth with soft tannins.
In 1887, the Dal Maso family began winemaking in the Gambellara DOC area. The Dal Maso company was founded in 1919 and in 1985 they purchased new properties in the Berici Hills area.
Colli Berici DOC Cabernet ”Pozzare” – Piovene Porto Godi is a blend of Cabernet Sauvignon (70 %) and Cabernet Franc (30 %). The production area is Toara di Villaga, Vicenza. The wine has matured in barriques and tonneaux for 12 months. Appearance is medium ruby. The nose is medium intensity with dark cherry, blackberry and some spiciness. The palate is soft with medium tannins and acidity and also dark and red cherries. Alcohol 14,5 %.
Piovene Porto Godi is located in the southern part of the Berici Hills. The vineyards extend from the foot of the hills to an altitude of about 250 meters. In addition to Cabernet Franc and Sauvignon, the family-owned Piovene Porto Godi grows Merlot and Tai Rosso varieties. Of the white grapes, they grow Sauvignon, Pinot Blanc and Garganega varieties.
Colli Berici DOC Carmenère ”Carminium” 2021 –Inama is made from hand-picked Carmenère grapes, harvested 50-150 meters above sea level. 12 months in 20 % new barriques and 80 % not news. The appearance is medium ruby. Nose of dark cherries, plums, black and white pepper and hint of herbs. The palate is soft and balanced. Pleasant aftertaste with hint of black pepper. Alcohol 12 %. The mulberry tree growing in the middle of the vineyard is a symbol of the farm and also appears on the label.
Inama is a family business located near Soave, where wine has been produced for over fifty years, now in its third generation. Their goal is to produce unique wines that represent the region.
Colli Berici DOC Rosso riserva ”Casa Defrà” – Cielo e Terra is made from hand-picked Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot grapes from the southwest of the Colli Berici. Maceration for 7-10 days at controlled temperature below 25 degrees. Maturation in stainless steel vats at controlled temperature. In oak barrels in 6 months.
The wine has medium garnet colour. Nose of cherries, plums, sweet spices and black pepper. The palate is soft with well-balanced tannins. Velvety and round wine. Alcohol 15 %.
The wines of Colli Berici, and Tai Rosso above all, offer a captivating taste of the region’s unique terroir – a truly special experience.
More reading: Consorzio Colli Berici e Vicenza: https://consorzio.bevidoc.it
Wine gifted.
